FANTASYLAND OF ICE AT PICTURED ROCKS

Each winter temporary ice formations form along the orange sandstone cliffs of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Wherever a tiny stream cascades over a cliff, or where water oozes through porous stone, ice forms upon hitting the frigid temperatures of a Lake Superior winter. These formations are reliable enough to have descriptive names given by the ice climbers who return each winter to test their skills on the frozen columns.

I have photographed the formations over several winters, but the winter of 2023 was my favorite because Karen (my wife) and I experimented with backlighting the ice at twilight and at night to give a sense of the color and translucency of the beautiful formations. I find the natural artistry of the ice as stunning as the sandstone formations of the Utah desert, but these are ephemeral and have to recreate themselves each winter. What an experience!

Ice climbing on Curtains at sunse
Karen Rentz at Amphitheater ice formation, with ice daggers overhead
Amphitheater ice formation
Details of ice formations in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
Curtains ice formation lighted by us at night
Curtains ice formation at the end of a winter day
Two views of naturally sculpted ice behind the Curtains
Behind the Curtains ice formation, lit by the photographer’s lights and by the twilight outside
Ice Daggers of the Amphitheater formation
Curtains ice formation lighted at night
Ice climbing on Curtains; note the ice tools, rope, helmet, and crampons
Northern White Cedar twigs encased in ice in the Curtains ice formation
Behind the Curtains ice formation with blue twilight coloring the translucent ice
Details of Curtains ice formation lighted at night; the round bubble-like shapes are created by water drops melting from the ice column above
Late afternoon light on the Amphitheater ice formation
Sculptural details of the Curtains ice formation lighted at night
Karen Rentz at Amphitheater ice formation: the ice columns emerge from seeps in the sandstone
Karen Rentz exploring behind the Curtains ice formation
Behind the Curtains ice formation, the translucent ice is reminiscent of a bridal veil
Front view of Amphitheater ice formation named for the shape of the alcove in the cliffs
Details of Curtains ice formation; note how the ice takes different shapes
Details of Curtains ice formation lighted at night
Amphitheater ice formation used by ice climbers in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
Icicle details of the Curtains ice formation
Dagger icicle details of the Amphitheater ice formation

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is located along Lake Superior in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Its namesake cliffs are miles long and make for great adventures all year, whether kayaking, backpacking, day hiking, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, or taking a guided cruise past the cliffs at sunset.

When we go in winter, we wear Kahtoola MICROspikes when navigating sheer ice at the ice formations, and we watched many people trying to stay upright when they walked in regular snow boots. Wear them! We also take snowshoes in case there has been a fresh snowfall and the trails are buried in deep fluff, though the short trails from Sand Point Road are often packed down by climbers. We also take cross-country skis to use on the nearby groomed trails. When venturing out in winter, we always wear insulated boots, and dress in layers of merino wool long underwear, waterproof snow/rain pants, and down, fleece, and a Gore-Tex shell. Mittens are essential, and chemical handwarmers can help when it’s really cold out. Take high energy snacks. To us, navigating winter is far more rewarding than enduring the bugs of early summer in the Upper Peninsula; just be prepared.

Important information about Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore:

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore information

Sand Point Ice Climbing and Viewing Map

Munising in Winter